Guatemala

Guatemala

To be honest, we weren't sure what to expect when we arrived in Guatemala. The guidebooks offer you some facts and figures, the internet some nice photos, and an occasional specimen who has actually been there offers an excited "great" and "amazing" and "awesome", but little else. This only made it all the more intriguing. I mean, who wants to visit a destination where even your grandma knows how to find the best karaoke happy-hour joint in town

Excitedly, we squashed our faces against the window as we made our way over the mountain peaks surrounding Guatemala City. Panicking for the best view, my head whipped from one side of the aircraft to the other, as we made a wide circling descent towards the sprawling metropolis, dissected by deep gorges and curtained by lush green mountains and rising volcanoes.

Once through customs, we were welcomed by the official gringo greeting entertainment - a six piece Mariachi band standing at baggage collection tapping out Latin standards on the worlds longest xylophone. Taking a quick look at our tickets to make sure we hadn't taken a wrong turn somewhere and ended up aboard the Love Boat, we Mambo Number 5'd over to the carousel and led our luggage out the door. It was officially holiday time

The Government is beginning to realise the potential of the tourist dollar. Thankfully, tourism is only in its developing years, so a band of merry Mariachi men is about as commercial as it gets. Much of Guatemala still offers an untainted experience that is difficult to find these days even in developing nations.

The country's history has certainly not been a happy one. It was only in 1996 that they emerged from a 36 year Civil War, during which time the indigenous people, the Maya, suffered terribly. It's important to keep this in mind as you travel throughout Guatemala, as the Maya struggle for many basic human rights

Despite the tense past, the people express an amazing sense of warmth and hospitality, and you can't help but feel humbled in their presence. We were amazed by the mysticism of the traditions, and the variety of the ecosystems, volcanoes, flora and fauna. Yet it is the people who will leave you with your most lasting impression.

Antigua

A great place to start your Guatemala experience is Antigua, nestled between three volcanos, an hour from Guatamala City airport. Antigua was the capital of Guatemala until the Santa Marta earthquake in 1773 rocked the foundations of much of the town. Still, the city retains its colonial charm. Public buildings, churches, convents and old residences are examples of the extravagant architecture and the prosperity of the past.

Tourism is Antigua's main income generator. With over 60 language schools in a city of just over 30,000 people, it's a popular destination for Gringos to spend a few months studying Spanish in the morning, and explore cobble-stoned streets and colourful neighbourhoods later in the day. In the evenings, locals and tourists alike arise from that fabulous Latin American tradition, the siesta, and head out to enjoy local cuisine such as chicken or beef, with rice beans, and tortillas, or one of many international cuisines available

Not surprisingly, the dreaded Ronald McDonald plague is spreading in Guatemala. However, Camperos, the local finger lickin' chicken chain dominates, having sent Colonel Sanders and his army running for the border like...well like a pack of chooks with their heads cut off. Whatever your pleasure, once you've fuelled the belly, you can head on to a bar for a few local cervezas, or Samba the night away in one of the lively nightclubs.

During the day, most of the action takes place around the Grand Plaza. Street vendors ply their trade as the tour buses roll into the square. It's a great place to sample the local food and world-renowned coffee in the outdoor cafes and restaurants, or simply hang out under shade in the park with the locals.

As in most developing countries, the children selling local textiles, wood carving and jewellery, use sales techniques to put Sydney's best real estate sharks to shame. Being a sucker for an angelic smile, it was a struggle to resist handing over a wad of Quetzal's to a little Mayan girl who advised me that my Senorita would adore me if I bought her the lovely embroidery scarves her mother had made for us.

Meanwhile, her knee-high brother was telling Senorita Michelle that she had the eyes of a goddess, and that any man who did not adorn her with such a gift was not worthy of her. It was now three against one, so I handed over the cash to the grinning dynamic duo.

It's worth spending at least a day exploring Antigua's colonial buildings and ruins. The most impressive being Catedral de Santiago, San Francisco, the town's most notable church near Parque Central, and Las Capuchinas, a former nunnery.

Looming over the city is the active volcano, Pacaya. For USD12 you can take a guided hike right to the rim of this 2500 metre chimneystack.

Climbing a volcano is not so much a strenuous activity as a complicated one. After a 2 hour uphill trek through dense bushland and small mountainside villages, greeting passing bulls, cows and chickens as they head down into town to do lunch, you find yourself staring up at the huge dark grey cone of Pacaya and realise the hike has just begun.

The combination of loose rubble, steep incline, and gale force winds provides excellent practice for your Latin dance moves..one step forward, two tumbles back. On a clear day, you can see into the glowing cone. Unfortunately, we experienced fairly heavy cloud cover. Nonetheless, you get a great sense of fulfillment on reaching the peak.

Tikal

From Antigua it's a 30 minute flight to Flores. The small island town is situated within easy reach of Tikal, the most notable Mayan site in Guatemala. Of course, if you have the time, riding "chicken" buses in developing countries is an experience that shouldn't be missed

The Mayans settled in Tikal around 700BC, and no one knows why it was abandoned around 900AD. The Spanish conquistadors didn't arrive to do their human spring-cleaning until the 16th century, so this is one place in Central America we can't blame the removal of indigenous life on Chris Columbus and friends.

You will need at least a full day at Tikal, November to February being an ideal time to visit. March and April are hot and dry, and the June to October wet season is muggy with pesky mosquitos running rampant. Apart from camping, accommodation at Tikal is quite expensive. Flores offers an array of places to eat and sleep at much more reasonable prices.

Tikal is breathtaking. Unlike Mayan sites such as Chichen Itza in Mexico, the pyramids rise above vines and trees in a jungle thick enough to swallow you. With raucous howler monkeys swinging through the trees, colourful toucans and parrots observing overhead, and the changing scents of the earth, vines and huge trees that work their way through the temples, you feel like you have been transported back 1500 years.

Climbing amongst these ancient ruins and rummaging through the humid jungle playing Indiana Jones and Lara Croft is an exotic experience. The raw beauty and mystery surrounding the site, makes Tikal one of the most romantic spots in the country.

The complex is 16 square miles and it would be ambitious to imagine you could explore it all in one day. The urban core has over 3000 buildings, including five pyramids with ornate stone temples on their summits rising 40 metres into the air. When you climb to the top of one of these ancient skyscrapers above the jungle canopy, it's like looking at five islands in a sea of greenery and mist. The showpiece of the site is the Great Plaza, an open expanse of pyramids, temples, courtyards, and palatial structures. From the top of the towering Temple 2 you can cast your eyes over the entire site and fantasise about what it must have been like to be a Mayan chief in 500AD.

It was around the time that I stood with arms outstretched and began referring to a group of tourists 40 metres below as "my loyal subjects" that Lara Croft decided I had lost the plot, and ducked off into the safety of the jungle to avoid embarrassment or arrest.

Lake Atitlan and the Highlands

Returning from Belize on the impressive TACA Air, it was time for a small taste of the beautiful Lago De Atitlan, at the gateway to the Maya region of Guatemala.

If you are limited for time, base yourself in Antigua and take day trips to the Lago De Atitlan (Lake Atitlan) and the markets at Chichicastenango. Alternatively, fling your luggage onboard an old Partridge Family school bus with the locals (USD3), or a private shuttle (USD 15), and within four hours be on a small boat heading out of the major town, Panajachel, or "Gringotenango" as the locals call it, towards one of the smaller lakeside villages.

85000 years ago a huge volcano exploded, wiping out much of life in Central America. The result is one of the world's most stunning geographic formations. A huge lake surrounded by mountains, valleys and dormant volcanoes. For as little as USD 3 a night, the villages tucked into the rim of the lake, offer some of the most spectacular scenery you will ever see.

One of the most popular lakeside towns is San Pedro, sitting at the base of Volcano San Pedro. Very cheap accommodation, beautiful views, and a number of language schools are part of the attraction. It is also the ideal place to base your self for daytrips to other villages.

The perfect way to start the day at Lake Atitlan is to crawl out of bed and onto your hotel porch to watch the sunrise over the lake. The mountains take on an amazing yellow haze and the water surface is so still, only disturbed by the tiny canoe paddles of the local fisherman.

A recommended afternoon activity for any stressed out city slicker is to sit back with a drink at a lakeside restaurant. You can't help but float into a state of total relaxation as you watch village life drift by. Anyone we met who had spent more than a few weeks in San Pedro, spoke as if they were a 45 record running at 33 revs per minute.

One of the highlights of our trip was a 5 hour trek to the village of San Miguel. It's wise to start out as early to avoid the afternoon sun, as you hike along steep tracks up to the small mountain village of Santa Clara. The village is untouched by the local tourism market, so it's a rare opportunity to experience the warmth of the Mayan people without travelling to the secluded villages in the northwest of the country.

The view from the mountain top is unbeatable, and follows you as you wind down through San Pablo and onto peaceful San Marcos, famous for The Piramides meditation centre situated right on the lake. All the accommodations are shaped like pyramids. The centre offers yoga, meditation, massage and metaphysical courses. I was intrigued to find out what went on after dark at this hippie heaven. Unfortunately, you need to book in advance, so we hopped in a little ferry boat out the front of the centre and made our way to San Pedro, waving back at the cast of Hair as they floated back behind the walls to the Garden of Eden.

The perfect way to end a day of trekking is to sink into a lakeside hot tub at San Pedro's Thermal Waters. Arriving around 6pm, we submerged our weary bodies in to the warm water as the sun settled down behind the mountains. Before long we were bathing under the stars. The manager drifted out of his office, placed some candles in the ground around our tub, and left us with the keys. Yep, I'm wondering why I came home too.

Mountain biking, horse riding to the top Volcano San Pedro, and kayaking are also popular activities at Atitlan. For the bargain hunters, you will find some of the best markets for textiles and clothing at Santiago Atitlan, and Panajachel. An hour away is Chichicastenango, Guatemala's largest indigenous markets. I managed to pick up carved wood masks, ornate blankets, clothing, local jewellery and a bag to carry it all in at very good prices. As always, once you're home you wish you had bought more, so go crazy.

With more time to spare, you can explore more traditional Maya villages and towns in the Western Highlands around Nebaj, Quetzaltenango, Huehuetenango, and Todos Santos

Our final night at Atitlan was spent in Guatemala's most beautifully positioned hotel at Jabalito, accessible only by boat or foot. La Casa del Mundo Hotel & Caf頳its right on the cliff face overlooking the lake. Bungalows with private bath and balcony cost USD16 a night - a fairly hefty price to pay in this area of the world. During the day you can make you're your way to one of the other lake villages, laze around in the sun, or for something a little more strenuous, hire a sea kayak.

Guests dine together on a three course meal at one long table, and swap travel tales. You can enjoy a pre-dinner drink at the bar or in one of the balcony hammocks watching the vibrant colours of an Atitlan sunset fade behind Volcano San Pedro. Once you have had your fill of fine food, wine, and conversation, roll yourself out to a hammock and enjoy the amazing shooting star show. It was the perfect way to say "hasta luego" to one of the most stunning places I have ever experienced.

For most Australians, Central America doesn't spring to mind as a holiday destination. Many see it as long flight to a largely unknown part of the world, historically associated with unstable governments and violence. There has been a lot of change in Central America in recent years. It is certainly a much more settled region of the world than it was during the 80's and early 90's. As in any developing country, show a little vigilance, respect the local customs and you will have one of the best adventures of your life.

It would take months to truly gain an insight into life in these countries. However, in 2-3 weeks you can experience some of the most diverse and breathtaking natural attractions in the world, throw yourself into limitless adventure activities, soak up the sun on beautiful Caribbean islands, explore fascinating ruins, colonial architecture, and learn about one of the world's most dynamic indigenous cultures, the Maya.

To top it all off, you won't find one karaoke bar within cooee of the place. If nothing else, that's got to be a reason to get yourself there.