Just Back From ...

We hired a fantastically comfortable full size car and drove (though it felt more like gliding) following the coast for an overnight stop at Tutukaka. I highly recommend walking barefoot on the grass round here - it is so dense and lush and thick I would swear it was astro-turf! Tutukaka is also the gateway to the Poor Knights Islands, hailed by scuba guru Jaques Cousteau as offering some of the most spectacular diving in the world. It's around 45 mins out to the dive sites from Tutukaka and trips leave daily.

From here it's just a hour or so to Paihia, the Bay of Islands' "Tourist Central". Paihia (pronounced Pie-Here - and indeed, you can find a decent pie here!) is a small town that seems almost entirely comprised of motels, backpackers, and tour companies. Although the town itself isn't that 'pretty' its extremely convenient and if you want to make the most of this region then you're as well to choose Paihia as your base.

And I can highly recommend the Saltwater as the best and most happening bar in the area: friendly locals and tourists mingle to great music, with a good value bar and undoubtedly the best pizza in Northland!

There's a wealth of activities on offer and inevitably many are water-based, We spent a day sailing a 65 foot maxi yacht, Gungha II, around the islands with a spot of snorkelling and bushwalking thrown in. They'll let you help sail the yacht if you want to feel like an America's Cup contender, or just lie back, sip a chilled white wine and pretend you own it!

Kayaking is another favourite - although I highly recommend trying something a little different and paddling a Maori Waka (canoe) with Te Waka Tours. We spent a glorious morning paddling around the Bay listening to our guide's remarkably tuneful renditions of traditional Maori songs and history.

Whatever your preference you really should get out on the water to really experience the beauty of the Bay of Islands. Even if you just hop on one of the little ferries that plies the stretch of water from Paihia to historic Russell. Pop over for dinner at one of the restaurants on the waterfront or watch the Sunset from the deck of the historic Duke of Marlborough Hotel. On the subject of history, Waitangi Treaty House is a must see whilst you're here, being just a couple of Km's down the road from Paihia.

Paihia can also be used as a base to take a day trip up to Cape Reinga, the northernmost tip of New Zealand and the start (or end, depending on your perspective) of famous 90 Mile Beach. Normal cars are not insured on this stretch of 'highway' so you have to take a tour if you want to drive along the beach. Visit the lighthouse and see the spot where the blue and green oceans of the Pacific and Tasman merge, then grab a boogie board and go 'dune-surfing' down the biggest sand dunes you've ever seen! It's a huge adrenaline rush, although it takes around 10 mins to walk to the top again and around 5 nano-seconds to hurtle down!

The pastoral idyll of Northland is further encompassed in the town of Keri Keri, known as the 'fruitbowl' of New Zealand for its abundant crops of oranges, tangelos and inevitable kiwi fruit. There are also a couple of darned good wineries and a hand-made chocolate factory for those with epicurean tendencies! Keri Keri is also home to the oldest building in New Zealand, Kemp House and the old Stone Store. The Stone Store was the orginal Mission Supply Store and now houses a a fascinating recreation of all the old commodities it used to stock, such as trading blankets, gunpowder tea, nails and muskets …

The Bay of Islands is a fabulous place to visit and warrants at least a few days (we spent a week here) to ensure you make the most of everything it has to offer!