Just Back From ...
Hobart, Tasmania
By Lee Franks
Before I went to Hobart some of my more smutty friends sniggeringly enquired if I'd ever seen a 'map of Tasmania'? I have - a real one, thanks - but I was still surprised by Hobart's stunning geography, set as it is on the enormous body of water that is the Derwent River Estuary and, travelling South, the spectacular D'Entrecasteaux Channel.
Flying in over Hobart my travel companion asked "Where are all the houses?!" - good question! The overwhelming sensation is of gently undulating green hills, acre upon acre of forest and huge expanses of water. As we banked around a little it became obvious there actually IS a city here, it's just wonderfully low-rise and scenic!
As we had limited time, being only a long weekend break, we picked up a hire car at the airport and set off immediately for Port Arthur, an easy, scenic 1.5 hour drive down the Tasman Peninsula. Grey drizzle didn't dampen our spirits as we entertained ourselves by counting road-kill. There's LOTS of it - which just goes to show that wildlife abounds here ... until it's squashed.
Port Arthur is the historic site of the notorious prison dating from the early 1800s and a very reasonable entrance fee includes a 1 hour guided walk of the site as well as a short cruise. A perfect way to get an understanding of how impenetrable this prison was with the only access being by sea. Some of the buildings have been very well preserved and some have been left as ruins having been gutted by fire. Nonetheless it remains an incredibly eerie place. There is also a heart rending monument to the 1996 massacre which took place on this spot and where tragically 35 innocent people lost their lives. Visit the memorial garden and contemplate for a while.
One of the most popular things to do at Port Arthur is the Historic Ghost Tour! Come back at around 9pm and walk around and into the buildings after dark by lantern whilst your guide recounts genuine tales of supernatural occurrences and try to hold it together - go on - just try! I was convinced there would be some 'practical joke' playing to elicit a few screams, but no, it wasn't necessary. Just the feeling of the place, it's murky history and the intense suffering that occurred here is enough to freak-out the most cynical.
After a sleepless night we returned leisurely to Hobart the next day in time to saunter around the famous Salamanca Markets which take place every Saturday. Think fantastic craft stalls, heaps of Tasmanian wooden products that you can't help but stroke, gorgeous old sandstone buildings, buskers and drinking a cold beer in the sun watching the world amble past ... the perfect place to while away a lazy Saturday. Hobart is no less lively at night. Most of the action seems to take place around Salamanca and Battery Point with cafes and restaurants serving up the freshest seafood - I've never had such succulent calamari in my life!
Whilst on the subject of culinary delights, if you want THE most perfect Sunday lunch (possibly in the whole of Australia) then hop in your car and drive 30 mins South to Peppermint Bay. This architecturally stunning restaurant, bar & providore is set on the shores of Peppermint Bay looking across the D'Entrecasteaux Channel to Bruny Island (where I'm told half of Hobart have their weekend 'shacks' - they obviously know a thing or two!)
The restaurant has soaring floor to vaulted ceiling windows to let in as much of the spectacular outdoors as possible. The menu focuses on the best of local produce and is matched by a great wine list, each course is offered with a suggested wine so we took the option to drink by the glass rather than get a bottle as we wanted to try everything! The service too was impeccable. The hard part was having to leave!
Oh, and allow yourself time to drive a few km's south to the Farm Cheesery. This gorgeous little place will take you through a 'taste-test' of some of their hand made cheeses named things like 'Blue Bay-ewe' (they seem to enjoy their puns as much as their cheese!)
It's a cliche I know, but 2.5 days was not enough! After all, we missed out on visiting the Cadbury Factory (now that's a tragedy!) The Cascade Brewery is also here (one for the boys!) and I'd also had recommendations for Meadowbank Winery, Barilla Bay Oysters and I'm told a drive to the top of Mount Wellington is also a must ... ah well, they do say "always leave something undone so you have an excuse to come back". I guarantee I'll be back!
Hobart is serviced by both Virgin Blue and Jetstar from sydney. With a flying time of under 2 hours and so many 'sales' on offer by both airlines, getting to Hobart can be as cheap and convenient as getting to the Gold Coast. So if you want to escape the frenzied crowds, experience beautiful scenery with the very best of Australian food and wine, and thoroughly relax and rejuvenate then you simply have to choose Hobart!
