Singapore
by Natasha Langham
Beneath the shiny chrome and glass exterior of Singapore lies an unexpected world to delight the palate and the pocket. There is more than meets the eye and Singapore is filled with hidden treasures that surprise the most jaded of travelers. Sit back and get ready to take a fresh look at Singapore.
Deciding where to stay can be one of the hardest choices and Singapore offers a wide range of hotels in a variety of locations. Being close to places like Orchard Road and the Marina can add a few extra dollars. For the most part, everything in Singapore is a short, relatively inexpensive taxi ride away
At the top end of the scale, the newly refurbished Westin Stamford always gets the nod. Being close to Raffles it is an easy crawl back to the hotel after trying too many Singapore Slings. Of course the Grand Girl herself is a nice place to stay and there is rumored to be a weekend seafood buffet that is the envy of Asia. Or look to the Ritz Carlton Millennia for setting the standard in style
The Merchant Court hotel lies on the banks of the Singapore River opposite Clarke Quay. Under the fragrant frangipanis, it is the place to sit and dangle feet in the wide-open pool. Service is a tad on the s l o w side - but hey, this is a holiday. This is a great central location to all the eateries on Clarke Quay and Boat Quay is a short stroll away.
Being in Singapore over a weekend gives a fabulous insight into the locals. Start the day early at Bugis Junction and watch the people praying in the two temples (one Indian and the other Buddhist). Market stalls are filled with the most beautiful lotus and chrysanthemum flowers. Buskers offer free entertainment and the markets buzz with all sorts of fruit, food and "genuine " designer label clothing. Head on up from Bugis Junction to Arab St and soak up the scent of tailor made perfumes. Stop at the various fabric shops and be dazzled by the variety and richness by the metre. The shopkeepers will be able to recommend good tailors to transfer the metres into ready to wear glamour. Stop at some of the home ware stores full of cane weaving and leather satchels. Being the first buyer of the day means a good bargain and prices can come down quite a lot. Head back up the road for a look at the newly renovated mosque. Keep a sharp eye out for the native Drop Lizards that leap off the roof onto unsuspecting tourists (nearly scared the life out of me - it did and provided no end of amusement for my jaded traveling companion).
From Arab St. head to the maze of Little India, complete with lotus street signs. Here is the place to get some of the best Indian clothes and bracelets this side of the Ganges. The flavour is definitely Indian from the food to the locals to the music in the streets. Here is a great place to try a Hawkers Centre, being a lot cleaner than what it sounds. These are markets usually under apartment blocks. There is a range of food for incredibly cheap prices and it is all great value for money. Stay away from the western food - you're in Asia! Instead, try the roasted pork and rice for about s$2 and wash it all down with a fresh pineapple juice. Duck is also very good - but from past experience avoid the chicken dishes at all costs. It is something about the way they cut it up… otherwise be tempted (?) by Pig Organ Soup and Fish Balls as some of the local specialties. Head up a flight of stairs and be confronted by cheap clothes, all type of home wares and prices dream about.
Feed and fueled, take a taxi down to Chinatown and stop at Sri Mariamman Temple. Okay, it is an Indian Temple in the heart of Chinatown, but it is a stunning display of faith. Shoes are left outside and hotfoot it inside to marvel. On the weekends the place is full of weddings and guests all happy to share their joy with everyone. Flowers and smiles decorate the temple and it is just stunning. From the temple, head down Pagoda St to delight at the various 'antique' shops filled with Chinese schnick snack off all sorts. The creative types will be able to get wardrobes home, the more conservative will contend themselves with a Chinese style lunchbox. Wander over to Temple St and find the Priti Shop. This is THE place for the best bloc print table clothes, bedspreads, serviettes and wall hangings. All the designs are Indian and the owner has a remarkable memory for what you bought last year and what size it was. These are simply stunning accessories for summer tables the prices are very good. Stroll back up the street and find a little toothless Chinese man with more bowls, teapots and home wares you could poke a chopstick at. Funny thing too, his prices are about 80% cheaper than those in Pagoda Street (for the same bowl!). Don't forget to stop and look at the distinctive architecture and time gone into restoration. Make a stop at the Chinatown Complex on Smith Street and start in the basement of this Hawkers Centre. Be prepared for the ultimate "fast food' with all manner of fresh food on same - from fish, to frogs and eels. It is a great place to buy fruit and try and guess the type.
As afternoon draws to a close, take in the revamped buildings of Clark Quay on the Singapore River and follow the river back up to Boat Quay. It affords the chance to see what restaurant has the best dinner offer (make sure the restaurant has Pandan Chicken - this is chicken pieces wrapped on palm fronds and cook hmm yum) before heading up to the Merlion and watching sunset over the Guardian of Singapore.
The day is nearly over and we have not even been to Orchard Road, Singapore Zoo or stopped at Fort Canning or Sentosa Island. So scratch the surface and Singapore comes alive with so much to offer. There are back street and hidden temples, there are markets and bargains still to be had and all under a warm sun.
