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Tonga - Carpets of Coral

by Bill Lee

My Mum always said that she would one day go to Tonga on a Banana boat. This idea spawned from the West Indian bananas she sold in her North England corner store, the music of the time and Queen Salote of Tonga’s visit to the English Queen’s coronation. Geography was also not her strong point. But the idea always stuck and 50 years later here was I arriving not on a Banana boat, but on a gleaming Royal Tongan Airlines 757. Great flight – non stop from Sydney leaves on a Thursday night so you can work the day and then have only a 4 hour plus journey – the Monday service and both return flights are via Auckland, so longer. Friendly and courteous cabin crew. No grog though so make sure the hip flask is handy if necessary. All flights into Nuku’alofa airport seem to arrive at some gawd awful hour so we had organised a transfer into town and the Friendly Islander Inn (Papiloa’s place). This is how we came to meet Edward – taxi driver, tour guide, historian and font of all knowledge. By the time we arrived at the Friendly Islander, having avoided an amazing number of pigs, dogs and chickens, Edward had it all sorted for us. A short nap, breakfast and a walk along the harbour foreshore and Edward was back again to take us to the airport (do hope he had a sleep) for the spectacular flight to Vava’u. Spectacular because Tonga is literally thousand of coral islands which, viewed from the air, are magical. Vava’u is a sailor’s paradise and Friday night is the night to go to Ana’s bar next door to the Vava’u yacht club. The friendly yacht race finishes here and the place is suddenly full of people from every corner of the globe – all with a story to tell. At night fall the Tongan dancers appear, fire dance and all – the place goes off like you wouldn’t believe and I think I still have the hangover. Next day we took a taxi tour around the island. Filomenga drove, daughter Filomenga was our excellent tour guide and her daughter, 3 year old Elena Sunshine entertained (apparently she would have trashed the house if she didn’t come). She was gorgeous and there is hopefully a picture of her with this story. A very worthwhile, interesting day.
	In Vavau’ we stayed at the Hilltop hotel which is on a high spot looking over the town and both the old and current harbours. A top spot with a great Italian restaurant called the Sunset from which you can watch just that. Only down side is the noise. I think Tongans are noisy by nature and the dogs, cockerels and pigs don’t seem to take any breaks. The Tonga Beach Resort is a way out of town – superb spot and quieter. Another option is the Paradise Hotel on the waterfront which is the best hotel in Vava’u Tongans are fanatical Christians but if we thought that would mean a bit of peace and quiet on Sunday WRONG.
You would be forgiven for thinking there was a competition for the loudest bells and drums and kick off is 4a.m.! The velocity of the first bell almost propelled us out of bed – hey but maybe that’s the idea. Because almost everything is closed in Tonga on Sunday we chose that day to do the whale watch tour with Sailing Safaris. This is one special day out – you even get to swim with the whales if conditions are right. The expression ‘at your own risk’ does come into it’s own here though. Well informed crew, a bit of snorkelling, a bit of lunch and those huge, amazing creatures – a day we won’t forget. Our flight back to Nuku’alofa called into Ha’apai - mental note here to visit next time. Looks beautiful and apparently even more laid back than Vava’u which is hard to believe. Back to Nuku’alofa (and Edward of course) and the Friendly Islander Inn welcomed us back like long lost friends. It’s a good place – quite a range of accommodation from budget backpacker to fales with toot and shower (our choice), to self catering. A bit out of town but a $3 taxi ride took us to the Royal Palace, the Royal tombs, impressive churches (of course) markets etc etc and the best meal we had in Tonga at the Friends Café. For me the chance to fulfill another lifelong ambition and drink in the Dateline Hotel which has been around even longer than me. A splendid façade led into a splendid lobby and a $12.00 lemonless gin and tonic served on an amazingly dirty table with an vase of amazingly dead flowers – oh dear!. A good accommodation option in Nukualofa is Winnie’s Guest House and, if you’re looking for a resort holiday then they don’t come any better than Fafa Island which is a 45 minute boat ride from the main wharf.
Next day we gave Edward the big chance to show us the lot and he sure did just that. He even turned up in a very smart saloon car rather than the transfer van. We had to do the city sites again (this guy is serious about his work) , Captain Cook’s landing site, Stonehenge type monuments, blow holes, bats, red shining parrots (I’m a bird lover too), a 3 headed coconut palm etc etc – it was truly great and Edward dropped us off at the surfing beaches of Tongatapu’s north west, the icing on the cake. The surfing here is reef break and not for the beginner. That coral is very sharp – ouch. Otuhaka Beach Resort is a group of shacks on a Robinson Crusoe style beach. You could really drop out here – the sort of place you shouldn’t stay too long in case you switched off altogether and 5 star it certainly ain’t. It’s run by Dan, a larger than life Tongan with an American accent who can usually be found sleeping behind the bar, but,all you need to say is ‘can I get a beer Dan?’ for instant activity and ‘ sure bro’. Just a short way up the beach is the Ha’atafu Beach Resort run by Australian surfer Steve Burling – more upmarket and more organised for extra activities and the like.
	Yes I’ll go to Tonga again (I have to see the red shining parrot in it’s natural habitat which is the island of Eua);– it’s the sort of place that has you thinking ‘what the hell am I doing here’ when you’re sitting behind your computer.

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