Just Back From Kuala Lumpur
by Tully Rosenberg
My first visit to Kuala Lumpur was off to a high flying start. As a solo traveller on an overbooked flight I was upgraded to Business Class on Malaysian Airlines, and my personal waiting staff could not have been more attentive. After a decadent three course dinner, my private screening of Dreamgirls and a lying-down sleep, I arrive at KL airport...
With a spring in my step and no checked luggage to wait for I was the first off the plane and into the terminal at the desolate hour of 4am. What now? In all my naivety, I stroll right past the official taxi counter and straight into the arms of the unscrupulous ‘do you need a taxi?’ clan, waiting to pounce on any ill-educated tourist. Relating stories about no trains, no taxis, after-hours fees and the great deal they were giving me, I was offered a ride for MYR250. Thankfully, I had been advised pre-departure that a taxi in town should cost about MYR90 (app $AU30) so I back-tracked to the right place, got my real taxi pass and learnt my first valuable lesson.
First stop, The Sheraton Imperial Hotel. Shrouded in old-world opulence this 5 star hotel was worth it’s weight in feather-down pillows and marble bench-tops. It was the perfect counter balance to the frenetic pace of the shopping mecca that beckoned outside. That is KL’s primary attraction. Shopping. It’s a nice, clean, civilised city, lacking the raw energy of some of the less developed Asian capitals, but holds it’s own as an exciting and worthwhile stop-over for a bit of a cross-cultural splurge.
Over my three day sojourn I went everywhere I needed to go… twice! I had an easy induction to the fast, efficient and cheap public transport system that will take you almost anywhere. My first port of call was Suria KLCC, conveniently located in the underbelly of the Petronis Twin Towers – one of KL’s premier tourist attractions and truly striking structures, especially at night. KLCC is a good mid-range mall, equal parts mainstream and designer, my highlights being UK fashion fixtures Topshop and Zara. A massive treat! In contrast to this sedate and sophisticated shopping centre is Sungei Wang, an dizzying sensory overload for die-hard shoppers only! It’s busy and big, but there are bargains to be had. Bukit Bintang – the bustling strip that boasts Sungei Wang Plaza, as well as BB Plaza, Lot 10, KL Plaza, and the opulent Star Hill – is heaven or hell depending on your shopping inclinations. If that’s not enough, Times Square is around the corner - another massive mall, somewhat redundant after the plethora of shopping fodder that has preceded it. No less busy, no less big, and no fewer bargains, with everything under one gigantic roof. Slightly out of town is Mid-Valley Mega Mall. Need I elaborate? Again, there wasn’t much I hadn’t seen before. But with a massive selection and more relaxed atmosphere it proved to be a great, well-rounded place to shop.
Petaling Street, Chinatown, is more my speed. I love a good market, and the atmospheric night market is full of good deals, cheap, Chinese food and ‘genuine imitations’. Though I easily negotiated deals on handbags, watches and jewellery, it was the acquisition of DVD’s that was an experience. It took me at least an hour to fulfil my list of 20 movies, which included a detour to the head-office and engine room of the pirate DVD operation – out the back of the Barbeque Chicken Noodle House. All the DVD wheelers and dealers from the market came and went. So, don’t bother shopping around. They all come from the same place. Just give them your list and come back in half an hour.
My favourite find in all of KL was delicious and cost my 3 Aussie dollars. Little India is full of interesting eye candy, a down-sized market where you don’t have to haggle and can snap up amazing buys on cosmetics, and the best Masala Dosa I have ever had. For $3 and a full stomach, I went there two days in a row.
With much-needed foot reflexology and an indulgence facial also under my belt, I felt energised with the buzz of this lively city. I left KL with one more bag than I arrived with, but without too huge a whole in my pocket. A holiday hotspot it ain’t. But a stop-over, definitely. Its fun, it’s affordable, and there’s great shopping! What else could you want?
