Just Back From Vietnam
by Tully Rosenberg
It’s tempting to just cut to the chase and wax lyrical about the zen paradise that has changed my travel standards forever. But, obviously, there is much more to Vietnam than surround sound and pool valets. So, we begin at the top… well the bottom, really.
Having taken too much advice from well-wishers that had paved the way before us, we allowed only a few fleeting days to explore the south. Saigon is a bustling, busy city with bright lights and bikes everywhere. Crossing the road is the first challenge, calculating the exchange on your millions of dong is the next. With a Lonely Planet in tow, we got lost in the chaos, browsing the markets, sampling the nosh (the best in Vietnam) and indulging in Thai massage for next to nix. Our next stop was slightly inland to ‘the Paris of Vietnam’. A former French hill station? Yes. The Champs-Élysées? No! The deluge of rain didn’t help, but the sunny light of day that followed revealed a small, pretty town on a river with cute, boutique hotels and arty cafes. True to the romanticism of this provincial Europesque village, fate struck and we were swept off our feet… and on to motorcycles! We met two of the acclaimed Dalat Easyriders armed with a brag book full of glowing endorsements from previous passengers. With only a day to spare we agree to get a refund on our $5 bus tickets and invest in a different on-road experience to Nha Trang. Usually a 3 hour trip, we spend the day meandering through the mountains, visiting the villages, learning about the locals and laughing over lunch, before heading down the highway to our beachside destination. The exhilaration and adventure was overwhelming and made for a truly memorable highlight of our trip. It was hard to say goodbye to our lovely drivers/tour guides/ long-lost friends.
But Nha Trang beckoned, so we checked out the little tourist town akin to Surfers Paradise. We found a retreat from the hustle and bustle right on the beach, pulled up a deckchair by the pool, and soaked up the sun. More food, another massage and our work here is done! Back on the bus for an overnight journey to Hoi An. A World Heritage Listed town, Hoi An is beautiful in its own right. Perched on a river, the architecture and atmosphere of the Old Town are enchanting and the rich influences of French and Chinese history are alive with vibrancy and culture. The local cuisine is again at its best and the plethora of tailors reflects the town’s renowned trade. Not far from the centre of town is a long expanse of beach adding to the charms of this old-world wonder. And, as if that wasn’t enough to deem this our favourite destination, then there was The Nam Hai…
I must have been a good girl in my lifetime to land myself here. Pardon the cliché, but this is paradise! Not only does this luxurious resort defy typical 5 star standards, it is simply one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. We were granted an early check-in and whisked by buggy to our one-bedroom villa. Modern and minimalist, with touches of Vietnamese tradition, the interior is gorgeous in both look and feel. The plush bathrobes, outdoor shower, iPod surround sound system, elevated bed and bathtub, fresh bowls of fruit and luscious toiletries are among the fine details that set an unprecedented standard. We were hooked. Locking ourselves in the lavish villa was tempting, but with 3 amazing pools, a lake side day spa, a decadent restaurant and elegant landscaped grounds (plus a state-of-the-art gym, basketball and tennis courts, library and internet room, gift store…) we wanted to absorb every last hectare of this tranquil haven. The regular free shuttle bus to the Old Town also kept us connected to the lively centre.
The service at The Nam Hai is incomparable. Cross paths with anyone from the General Manager to the Gardener and you will be greeted with a smile and a few words of welcome. Head for the pool and the attentive valets bound into action, delivering fresh white towels on your deck chair, a bolster for your feet, a chilled bottle of water, cool face towels and their signature green-tea and mint refresher spray. Complimentary coconut ice-cream, a shoulder massage or the lunch menu all await, as you float in the perfectly temperate azure water overlooking the white sand beach in the distance. Aah… the serenity. Returning to the tranquility of our individual hideaway at the end of the day, the villa is set to night mode (the first time we walked in we thought it was the wrong room!) – the lights are off, the candles are alight and the soft curtains are drawn around the bed. Chill out tunes are playing, our beds are turned down and complimentary cakes are delicious! The romance is somewhat lost on my sister and I. Still, we never want to leave. Unable to break ourselves away we actually did stay for an extra night. Admittedly, The Nam Hai is a little extravagant, particularly by Vietnamese standards, but it is absolutely worth its weight in dong. A stunning, friendly and peaceful place it’s more a holistic experience than holiday accommodation. It makes you feel like you are getting the most out of life by indulging in something so beautiful. It’s intoxicating.
Weaning ourselves slowly from the high-life we have become accustomed to we save ourselves an arduous bus ride and fly to Hanoi. As luck would have it only Business Class fares are available. It’s just another sign of the new, indulgent life I am destined to lead. So for $100 we arrive refreshed after only an hour. Another buzzing metropolis awaits and the city is teaming with people, bikes and street stalls. Tourists gravitate to the historic Old Quarter, drinking 15c beer on the curb in a maze of narrow streets. Hanoi is a shopping mecca. Apart from the markets, there is a street for everything from sunglasses and shoes to haberdashery and home wares, but I don’t know how anyone makes any money – they all have the same stuff. It’s cheap and cheerful if that’s what you’re into but you pay for it in man power. For more unique gifts without the leg work check out a few of the boutique gift shops dotted around the place. Aside from its own historic sights and culinary delights, Hanoi is also the launch pad for tours to the jewels of the north – Sapa and Halong Bay. Overnight train is the only way to get to Sapa, a former French hill station in the far north west of Vietnam – not far from the Chinese border. The landscape is breathtaking with expansive views of terraced rice fields, remote villages and Vietnam’s highest peak – Fansipan.
A couple of days spent trekking though the villages, taking in the vibrant dress of the unique hill tribes and snapping up great silver earrings and intricately embroidered bags is an amazing adventure. From inland to the ocean, we headed back to base camp in Hanoi for our tour to Halong Bay, another World Heritage listed natural phenomenon. Aboard a deluxe Junk Boat for our overnight stay we cruise through the incredible caves and rock formations that make up the bay’s 1900+ islands. With fresh seafood for lunch and dinner, a spot of swimming and kayaking, and an upper deck to top up the tan and drift the day away, it was a perfect way to wind up our holiday.
With our last-minute manicures and bags full of treasures we leave Vietnam in awe of an amazing country. Vietnam is rich in cultural diversity and natural beauty with the nicest natives you could ever meet. From value packed to unsurpassed luxury there is a holiday escape for everyone hidden in it beaches, mountains and seas. I’ll be back one day… my villa is calling me.
